I have great memories of Haifa from a decade or so back. With its great beaches, great gardens and amazing views from atop the Carmel. The one thing I'd always dreaded was the absence of quality restaurants and pubs. A lot has changed in the interim.
By ASI GALdining(photo credit: )
We visited Haifa's Lolca on our annual family vacation. Just before leaving, my mother invited its owners, Amit and Roy, along with our waitress to visit us in Kfar Sava. My mother always does this. Once, she invited the cops that had pulled her over to a Sabbath meal. But, this time I didn't shake my head in disbelief. Amit and Roy love what they do and it was evident in every aspect of the meal. And, as it is when such love is shared, we wanted to reciprocate.
I have great memories of Haifa from a decade or so back. With its great beaches, great gardens and amazing views from atop the Carmel. The one thing I'd always dreaded was the absence of quality restaurants and pubs. A lot has changed in the interim.
The center of the Carmel, where we stayed, is abound with pubs and restaurants. Lolca is hidden among them in a small back alley. It's an excellent spot. As beautiful as the Carmel is, once you step into Lolca you find yourself well off the street and in a different world.
Amit, who is also the chef named the restaurant after his polish grandmother of the same name. Thus, the restaurant is well designed like a grandmother's house (if your grandmother had an amazing bar). White wooden tables stand beneath classically styled chandeliers. Pictures of the owners' grandparents adorn the walls. The atmosphere is great. But, wait, the food.
With Indian food his specialty, Amit is not afraid to spice everything up. Most of the time it works beautifully. The pea soup (NIS 25) had incredible hints of clove and cardamom, taking the soup to a level that I hadn't been aware was possible. The pumpkin and blue cheese stuffed green ravioli (NIS 59) was also nicely spiced, though a tad sweet. My mother and sister had the chopped liver (NIS 30) and sweet breads (NIS 45) for their starters, loving them both. To be clear, Amit had my Polish mother say great things about some one else's chopped liver. Now, that's art. For the main course they feasted on the lamb ossubuco (NIS 105), accompanied by delicious mashed potatoes.
Our beverages for the evening were cocktails (NIS 36). Our bartender was co-owner Roy. The cocktails on the menu are his own. My sister had a surprising combination of Campari and coriander. She loved it despite despising bitter drinks. I, on the other hand, struggled with the white micromeria Martini, made of white micromeria vodka. Mixed with dry vermouth, a touch of olive oil and served with sumac on the rim of the glass, it was quite tasty at first and not much longer. I ordered a whiskey sour to replace it. A solid move on my part, it was great.
Between dishes we were served an amazing Chardonnay and lemon grass sorbet. We also had great conversation with Amit. He told us stories about his polish grandmother, to each one of which, my mother would respond with, "Tell me about it. Now let me tell you what happened to me..." This is a traditional form of conversation.
Dessert found us with a plate of three chocolate mousses and pears in wine with mascarpone cheese (NIS 32). Both were great. The pears and one of the mousses had Indian spices that left a chai flavor in my mouth. I believe my taste is less spicy desserts but I was feeling good. We all were. My guess is it was the love. After all, that's the most important thing.
Lolca (129 A Ha'nassi St., Haifa, (04) 810-3343) is open Sunday to Saturday from noon to 11 p.m.; not kosher. The writer was a guest of the resturant.
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